Many trees in Miami County’s older neighborhoods were planted decades ago, before anyone knew how big they’d get. They now hang over roofs, scrape siding, shade out lawns, and drop deadwood on cars every time the wind picks up. Careful pruning fixes most of that without losing the tree.
We prune with the tree’s long-term structure in mind. That means cutting at the right spot so wounds close, removing deadwood and crossing limbs, reducing heavy ends that are likely to fail, and never “topping” a tree. Topping looks tidy for one season, then grows back as a thicket of weakly attached shoots that are more dangerous than what was there before.
Timing matters too. Many trees are best pruned in late winter while they’re dormant. Oaks are a special case: in Ohio, it’s best to avoid pruning them from spring through midsummer to reduce the risk of oak wilt. We’ll tell you when your trees should be done.
- Dead or leafless branches in the canopy, especially over the house, driveway or play areas
- Limbs rubbing the roof, gutters or siding, or growing into service lines
- Low branches blocking the driveway, sidewalk, street or view from the house
- Branches crossing and rubbing against each other
- Codominant stems (two main trunks forming a tight “V”) on a maturing tree
- Dense canopies that block light from the lawn or catch a lot of wind
- Storm damage: hangers, torn limbs or broken tops
The whole job, not just the cut.
- Deadwood removal to reduce the risk of falling limbs
- Clearance pruning over roofs, driveways, sidewalks and streets
- Crown thinning to let light and wind through without stripping the tree
- Structural pruning on young and middle-aged trees to prevent future splits
- Reduction of heavy or over-extended limbs
- Shrub and ornamental tree shaping
- Full cleanup, with brush chipped and hauled away
From first look to final rake.
- 1
Look at the whole tree
We check structure, deadwood, clearance problems and overall health, and talk with you about what you want from the tree.
- 2
Set a pruning goal
Clearance, safety, light, shape or all four. You’ll know exactly which limbs are coming off and why.
- 3
Prune with proper cuts
Cuts are made just outside the branch collar so the tree can seal them. We don’t top trees.
- 4
Leave it clean
Brush is chipped, the yard is raked and blown off, and we’ll let you know when the tree is likely to need another look.
Straight answers on cost.
Every property is different, so we price after we’ve seen the job. Estimates are free, and you’ll know the full scope and price before anything starts. These are the things that move the number:
- Size of the tree and how much of the canopy needs work
- Whether the work is over a house or other target that requires rigging
- How easily a bucket truck or climber can reach the tree
- The number of trees. Several in one visit is usually more efficient than one at a time
- Brush volume and cleanup
Common questions
How often should my trees be pruned?
Young trees benefit from light structural pruning every few years while they’re forming their shape. Mature trees typically need attention every three to five years, or after a storm, or whenever deadwood shows up over something important.
What’s the best time of year to prune?
Late winter dormancy is ideal for most trees: the structure is easy to see and the tree is ready to seal wounds in spring. Dead, broken or hazardous limbs can come out any time. Avoid pruning oaks from spring through midsummer because of oak wilt.
Will you top my tree to make it smaller?
No. Topping causes decay and a flush of weak sprouts that are more likely to break. When a tree really is too big for its spot, we use proper reduction cuts, or we’ll tell you honestly if removal and replanting is the better choice.
Can you trim branches near power lines?
Lines running from the pole to your house can be a different story than main distribution lines, which only the utility’s crews can work around. Call us and we’ll tell you what we can safely do and when to involve the utility.